La Oroya

Graphic by Limeno artist "Che" Revoluchionary Grafikz!


I have just visited the Andean town of La Oroya, some 180km east of Lima and known as one of the most contaminated cities in the world according to the Blacksmith's Institute report. A frustrating situation of mining greed, dodgy politics and human rights violations on a grand scale.

There is now a pending international lawsuit against Peru for mining contamination filed by a number of international NGO's

Further reading:
www.savelaoroya.org/
http://www.aida-americas.org/




La Oroya. Doe Run Company's poly metallic smelter to the right, Oroya to the left, split by the Mantaro River.
The town is enjoying rare clear skies while the smelter operation is currently closed as Doe Run Peru has run into extensive financial trouble this year in a crisis that threatens thousands of jobs and the environmental clean-up continually promised and extended.


A 2005 study by St. Louis University found that more than 90 percent of children in La Oroya had high lead levels in their blood. This child was adhering to strict guidelines regarding the spread of H1N1 by regularly washing his hands. Seems a little ironic given the seemingly more dire health problems associated with Doe Run's emissions.


Residents are wedged over the financial impact Doe Run has on the 33000 strong population and health issues caused by contamination from the smelter. A choice between their livelihoods, their lives and their childrens.


The landscape around La Oroya is dramatically scarred by acid rain. Emissions remain in the air over La Oroya (when the plant is operational) due it's location enclosed within high altitude Andean mountains.

Huancayo colour

I spent a few days in Huancayo in the Mantaro Valley as a base for a nearby town I was visiting (La Oroya) to research a project. Beautiful valley and a cruisy little jump-off point to the Peruvian Amazon only a few hours away. Still holding the characteristics of a wild west type Andean town, about 6-7 hours east by absolutely stunning bus ride from Lima.






This character was shooting portraits/passport pics on a camera that looked older than me and the size of my whole kit (pictured left). Couldn't figure out what it was, some sort of old polaroid maybe. He was pretty proud of it though.

Meeting Lima

As I soak in the glorious humidity of coastal Lima after 3 months in the southern desert of Peru, I am smitten on my arrival in the City of Kings, the capital of Peru, the gastronomic centre of Latin America – dusty, dirty Lima.


Not much foot traffic here, for his own indulgence.


No better place to be with a camera in hand..





Looking toward Miraflores



Jorge and Hiro



Worked up a thirst..


Ramiro Llona.
"I make large paintings on canvas with oils". Based now in Chorillos Lima, llona had studied, lived and exhibited in New York City for many years and is simplistic when he offers me a definition of his work. Llona is currently sculpting in bronze where he is of equal repute.
In an interview with Limeno journalist Jorge Riveros, Llona describes part of his process: “I always finish paintings. Continuing them would be to turn them into something else. Some you finish one way and others another. It’s like reaching the peaks of certain mountains. Surely, you’ll reach some more illuminated than others".

(c) Brenden Allen 2009

(c) Ramiro Llona UNTITLED circa 1972

(c) Brenden Allen 2009

Sheila Alvarado
When I asked Lima based graphic artist, Sheila Alvarado how she finds the weather here in Lima this time of year, being constant gloomy grey skies, she offers an unexpected answer that made more sense the more time I spent at her San Isidro apartment and studio. " I love it, the cloudy skies are like a blank piece of paper, looking up is like a fresh canvas". A prolific creator covering different media, she is well known for her self portrait styled "Limena Girl" graphics that illustrate a sex column in Peru 21 newspaper. She is currently collaborating with Lima born, American author Daniel Alarcón, illustrating a spanish language graphic novel called "City of Clowns" amongst her many other endeavors that continue to see her rising amongst Lima's artistic elite.

(c) Sheila Alvarado Limena Girl
http://www.sheilaalvarado.com/

Hugs

469th Anniversary of Arequipa, Grandes Peleas de Toros

Along with a few friends, we attended the Grandes Peleas De Toros Por El Campeonato as part of Arequipa's 469th Anniversary celebrations, held at Campo Ecologico de Alto de Amados in Sachaca.
A much grander affair than the last Peleas we went to in Cerro Colorado, it seemed half of Arequipa were in attendance.
The highlight of the event would have to have been the main bout in the Estelar Categoria Pesados por el Astero de Plata Otorgado por la Acpatpa, between 2 time Arequipan champion and obvious crowd favourite, the monstrous "Fiero" from Chullo and his opponent, "El Gran Gavilan Fugitivo" from Cerro Colorado. The build up to this bout was intense with access to Fiero restricted to the masses before his fight, leaving his admirers wistfully missing out on rubbing his testicles for luck, their luck not Fiero's.
As it turned out, Fiero didn't need any luck, disposing of his brave opponent to the roar of the crowd who leant on his every snort, head-butt, charge and gouge.
I spent the rest of my day barracking for "Simba", a favourite from the last Peleas de Toros we attended, who was back to mix it up (and win) in front of the larger crowd and also for the little battler, "Harry", my sentimental favourite.
As with most things requiring good management and order here in Peru, when the fights were over it took us an hour and a half to get the 100 metres to the exit of the stadium, though amidst honks, outbursts and fits of rage our competent driver managed to help down a litre of pisco before getting us home safely.







"El Gran Gavilan Fugitivo's" proud owner prior to his bout with "Fiero".


"Fiero" heading out to meet "El Gran Gavilan Fugitivo" in the main bout of the day


"El Gran Gavilan Fugitivo" makes for the stadium amongst well wishers